Planning a remodel? Your plumbing choices matter more than your tile.
A kitchen or bathroom remodel is the perfect time to fix the “behind-the-walls” problems that cause noisy pipes, weak shower pressure, slow drains, and surprise leaks. For Caldwell homeowners, smart plumbing remodel planning can also help you manage hard water wear on fixtures and extend the life of appliances like water heaters. This guide breaks down what to check, what to upgrade, and how to avoid common remodel mistakes—so your new space looks great and performs even better.
What “plumbing remodels” really include (and what they don’t)
A plumbing remodel isn’t just swapping a faucet or installing a new toilet. In many Caldwell remodels, plumbing work can include:
Supply piping updates (hot/cold lines to sinks, tubs, showers, fridges, and dishwashers)
Drain, waste, and vent (DWV) changes (proper slope, venting, trap placement, drain sizing)
Fixture selection + installation (valves, trim, shutoffs, toilets, tubs, disposals)
Water heater planning (capacity, recovery time, recirculation, venting, gas/electric needs)
Water quality solutions (softeners/filtration to protect new fixtures and appliances)
A remodel is also when code requirements and real-world performance collide. Done right, you’ll gain quieter plumbing, stable temperatures, and fewer callbacks later.
The biggest plumbing remodel mistakes (and how to avoid them)
1) Moving fixtures without a drain/vent plan
That “simple” shower relocation can turn into slow drains, gurgling, sewer odors, or repeat clogs if venting and drain sizing aren’t designed correctly. The fix is planning DWV routes before framing closes and verifying slopes/vent tie-ins early.
2) Keeping old shutoff valves and supply stops
If a valve doesn’t shut off cleanly, you don’t want to discover it during the next emergency. Remodel time is ideal for upgrading stops, adding accessible shutoffs, and labeling them for quick use.
3) Installing “pretty” fixtures without checking pressure/flow needs
Some multi-spray showers and large rain heads perform poorly if the home’s plumbing layout, pipe sizing, or pressure isn’t suited for them. A plumber can confirm realistic performance before you buy.
4) Skipping water-quality protection for brand-new finishes
Hard water scale can reduce efficiency and leave spotting on fixtures. If you’re investing in a remodel, it’s worth discussing softening/filtration options to keep new plumbing looking and working like new.
When it’s worth upgrading pipes during a remodel
Not every remodel requires a full repipe. But a remodel is often the most cost-effective moment to replace problem sections because walls are already open. Consider a pipe upgrade if you’ve experienced:
• Recurring pinhole leaks or water stains
• Low pressure in one area (especially after fixture upgrades)
• Frequent clogs that point to a tired or undersized drain line
• Visible corrosion, rust-colored water, or older sections of pipe that have been patched repeatedly
• A layout change that forces long runs, tight turns, or questionable venting
If you’re unsure, start with a targeted assessment. Many remodels succeed with selective replacements—upgrading the high-risk segments while keeping what’s still in great condition.
Quick comparison table: common remodel upgrades and what they solve
| Upgrade | Best for | Why it matters | Good time to do it |
|---|---|---|---|
| New shower valve | Stable temperature, better control | Reduces sudden hot/cold swings and improves usability | When walls are open in bath remodel |
| Targeted repipe | Recurring leaks, corrosion | Prevents hidden water damage behind new finishes | Before drywall/tile goes in |
| Drain cleaning / jetting | Slow drains, buildup | Restores flow and reduces remodel-time surprises | Before connecting new fixtures |
| Water softener / treatment | Hard water spotting, scale | Protects fixtures, appliances, and improves soap performance | Before or right after fixture upgrades |
| Water heater sizing/upgrade | New showers, tubs, added bathrooms | Prevents “ran out of hot water” after the remodel | When adding fixtures or increasing demand |
Step-by-step: how to plan plumbing for a kitchen or bathroom remodel
Step 1: List what’s changing (and what’s staying)
Note every fixture and appliance: sinks, toilets, tubs, showers, dishwasher, fridge line, washer box, hose bibs. If you’re changing locations, that’s a plumbing design decision—not just a design aesthetic.
Step 2: Confirm shutoff access and add protection
Plan where shutoffs will be accessible after the remodel. Consider leak prevention strategies in high-risk areas (under sinks, behind fridge supply, laundry).
Step 3: Make drain performance a priority
Remodels often expose existing issues—grease buildup in kitchen lines, hair/soap buildup in bathroom lines, or mainline limitations. A professional drain evaluation and cleaning can prevent “brand new sink, still slow drain.”
Step 4: Match water heater capacity to the new reality
A remodeled primary bath with a larger shower, dual heads, or a soaking tub can increase hot water demand. Storage (tank) water heaters commonly last around 10–15 years, while tankless units often last 20+ years, but sizing and installation details matter. If your remodel adds demand, it may be the right time to upgrade instead of “waiting for it to fail.”
Local angle: Caldwell homes, hard water, and protecting your remodel investment
Many Treasure Valley homeowners notice hard water symptoms—spotting on glass, mineral buildup at aerators, reduced water flow, and shortened fixture life. When you’re installing new faucets, showerheads, and valves, it’s a smart moment to discuss water treatment that supports long-term performance.
Signs your home may benefit from water treatment
• White scale buildup on fixtures and shower glass
• Soap that doesn’t lather well / “slick” feeling after rinsing
• Frequent aerator clogging or reduced spray patterns
• A water heater that seems to struggle or gets noisy from sediment
Ready to plan your plumbing remodel in Caldwell?
Cloverdale Plumbing has served the Treasure Valley since 1953. If you’re remodeling a kitchen, bathroom, or adding space, we’ll help you make plumbing decisions that hold up for the long haul—clean installs, clear communication, and practical options that fit your home.
FAQ: Plumbing remodels in Caldwell, Idaho
Do I need a plumber if I’m only changing fixtures?
If the fixture swap is truly “like for like,” you may not need major plumbing changes—but installation quality still matters (proper connections, shutoffs that work, leak testing). If you’re changing locations, adding fixtures, or upgrading showers/tubs, a plumber is strongly recommended.
Should I clean the drains before installing new fixtures?
It’s often a smart move—especially in kitchens and older bathrooms. Clearing buildup before reconnecting reduces the chance you’ll finish the remodel and then fight slow drains or backups.
What is hot water jetting, and is it safe for my plumbing?
Hot water jetting uses high-pressure hot water to scour buildup from the inside of pipes. It can be very effective for grease, sludge, and stubborn deposits. Whether it’s appropriate depends on pipe material, condition, and the type of clog—so an evaluation is key.
Will my water heater handle a new shower or soaking tub?
Maybe—many homeowners discover their current setup was sized for the old fixtures. If your remodel increases hot water demand, it’s worth reviewing heater capacity, recovery rate, and whether a tankless upgrade or a larger tank is a better fit.
What’s the best way to protect new fixtures from hard water?
A combination of the right water treatment (often softening and/or filtration) and practical habits (cleaning aerators, routine maintenance) helps reduce scale buildup and keeps finishes looking better longer.
Glossary (helpful terms for remodeling)
DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent): The network of drain pipes and vents that remove wastewater and allow air into the system so drains flow properly.
Shutoff valve (stop valve): A valve that turns water on/off to a fixture (like a toilet or sink) without shutting down the entire home.
Hot water jetting: A professional drain-cleaning method that uses pressurized hot water to remove buildup from pipe walls.
Recirculation line/pump: A system that keeps hot water closer to fixtures to reduce wait times at taps and showers.
Hard water: Water with higher mineral content (commonly calcium and magnesium) that can contribute to scale buildup on fixtures and inside appliances.
Want a second set of eyes on your plan before walls close up? Start here: Contact Cloverdale Plumbing.
Drain Cleaning Services in Boise, ID: How to Prevent Clogs (and When to Call a Plumber)
February 11, 2026A practical, Boise-homeowner guide to keeping drains flowing
Slow sinks, gurgling tubs, and surprise backups usually don’t start as emergencies—they start as small restrictions that build over time. In Boise and the Treasure Valley, everyday habits (grease in the kitchen, hair in the shower, “flushable” wipes, and mineral scale) can quietly narrow your pipes until the day water stops moving. This guide explains what causes most clogs, what you can safely do at home, and when professional drain cleaning is the smart (and damage-preventing) move.
What actually causes most clogs?
Most drain problems come down to two categories: stuff that shouldn’t be in the pipe and buildup that gradually coats the pipe. In real homes, it’s often a combination—hair catches soap scum, grease grabs food particles, and the “small” clog becomes a full blockage.
Common culprits we see in Boise-area homes:
- Fats, oils, and grease (FOG): Grease cools and hardens inside pipes, restricting flow and increasing backup risk. Even running hot water doesn’t “fix” it—once it cools downstream, it can still stick and accumulate.
- Hair + soap scum: The classic shower/tub clog combo. Hair acts like a net; soap scum binds it into a dense mat.
- “Flushable” wipes & paper products: These can hang up on rough spots, roots, or pipe joints and form a plug.
- Food scraps & coffee grounds: Garbage disposals don’t make solids “disappear.” They can settle and combine with grease.
- Mineral scale: Hard-water minerals can coat the inside of pipes and reduce diameter over time, making clogs more likely.
Why drain issues escalate fast (and get expensive)
A partial blockage doesn’t just slow water—it changes how your plumbing behaves. Water starts to swirl and leave residue behind, solids settle out, and the clog “grows.” In the worst cases, pressure and backups can force wastewater into fixtures on lower floors, or flood areas around floor drains.
Red flag: If multiple fixtures are slow at the same time (example: toilet bubbles when the shower drains), the problem may be deeper in the main line—not just one trap under a sink.
DIY vs. professional drain cleaning: what’s safe and what works
| Approach | Best for | Pros | Risks / Limits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drain strainer + routine cleaning | Hair, food solids prevention | Low cost, high impact | Prevention only; won’t clear existing deep clogs |
| Plunger (correct type) | Toilets, some sinks/tubs | Fast, safe when used correctly | Can’t remove buildup; may not reach past branch lines |
| Hand auger / small snake | Localized clogs (sink, tub) | Physically removes hair/solids | Can scratch fixtures, damage older piping if forced |
| Enzyme drain products | Maintenance (light organic buildup) | Gentler for routine use | Not a “clog remover” for heavy grease, wipes, roots, scale |
| Professional cable + inspection | Recurring clogs, deeper lines | Finds the cause; clears blockages reliably | Requires a licensed plumber to avoid pipe/fixture damage |
| Hot water jetting | Grease, sludge, heavy buildup | Scours pipe walls; excellent for recurring grease issues | Should be evaluated first to ensure piping is suitable |
What to do when a drain is slow (a safe checklist)
If water is still draining (just slowly), you have a window to handle it before it becomes a full blockage.
Step-by-step: quick triage
- Identify the scope: Is it one fixture, one room, or the whole house? Multiple slow drains often suggests a main line issue.
- Remove the easy stuff: Pull and clean the drain stopper/strainer and remove visible hair and debris (gloves help).
- Use the right plunger: Cup plunger for sinks/tubs; flange plunger for toilets. Seal overflow openings for better pressure on tubs.
- Try a small hand auger (if appropriate): Useful for tub/shower hair clogs and some sink blockages. Go gently—don’t force it.
- Skip harsh chemical drain cleaners: They can be hard on plumbing and create a safety hazard for whoever has to service the line afterward.
- Call a pro if it returns within days/weeks: Recurring clogs usually mean buildup, a damaged section, or a deeper obstruction that needs proper equipment.
Did you know?
- Pouring grease down the drain—even with hot water—can still lead to clogs and sewer backups once the grease cools and sticks to pipe walls.
- Garbage disposals don’t prevent grease buildup; they only shred solids into smaller solids that can still accumulate.
- Many sewer agencies recommend wiping greasy pans and scraping plates into the trash to reduce FOG entering plumbing.
Simple habit changes in the kitchen and bathroom prevent a large share of emergency drain calls—especially when combined with periodic professional maintenance for older homes or recurring problem lines.
Drain clog prevention tips that actually work
Kitchen drains: keep grease and solids out
- Trash the grease: Let grease cool in a disposable container, seal it, and put it in the trash—not the sink.
- Wipe first, wash second: Wipe greasy pans and plates with paper towels before rinsing.
- Use a sink strainer: Catch rice, pasta, coffee grounds, and food scraps before they enter the drain.
- Be cautious with the disposal: Use it sparingly; it’s not a replacement for scraping the plate.
Bathroom drains: stop hair before it becomes a blockage
- Install a hair catcher: This is the single easiest way to reduce shower/tub clogs.
- Clean stoppers routinely: Remove and clean tub/sink stoppers monthly (more often for long hair).
- Know what not to flush: Wipes, paper towels, feminine products, and cotton items belong in the trash.
Recurring clogs: consider a preventive clean-out
If you’re clearing the same drain every few months, the line may have buildup (grease, sludge, scale) or an underlying issue. Professional drain cleaning—especially hot water jetting for stubborn buildup—can restore flow by scouring pipe walls rather than just poking a hole through the clog.
Learn more about professional jetting here: Hot Water Jetting & Drain Cleaning.
A Boise, Idaho angle: when to be extra cautious
Boise homes range from mid-century builds to newer neighborhoods across the Treasure Valley. Older sections of plumbing can have more scale, rougher interiors, or past repairs that snag debris. Cold snaps can also add stress to plumbing systems, and emergency calls often spike when a small restriction turns into a full backup at the worst time.
When Boise homeowners should call sooner rather than later
- You smell sewage near a drain or in a basement/crawlspace
- Toilet bubbles when a sink or shower drains
- Water backs up into a tub/shower when running the washer
- Clogs return quickly after plunging or snaking
If you suspect a deeper blockage or need fast help, Cloverdale Plumbing offers round-the-clock response through their on-call team (no call centers): 24/7 Emergency Plumbing Services.
Need drain cleaning in Boise—without the guesswork?
If your drain is slow, backing up, or clogging repeatedly, a professional clean-out can prevent damage and restore reliable flow. Cloverdale Plumbing has served the Treasure Valley since 1953 with responsive, straightforward service.
For all services, visit: Plumbing Services
FAQ: Drain cleaning services
How do I know if the clog is in the main sewer line?
Watch for multiple drains slowing at once, gurgling sounds, or water backing up in a tub/shower when you flush or run the washer. Those symptoms often point to a deeper issue than a single sink trap.
Is hot water jetting safe for my pipes?
In many cases, yes—when it’s performed by a professional after evaluating the line. Jetting is especially effective for grease and heavy buildup because it cleans the pipe walls rather than just pushing through a hole in the clog.
Should I use chemical drain cleaner from the store?
It’s usually not the best first step. Harsh chemicals can be hard on plumbing and create safety hazards during repairs. If a clog is recurring or severe, professional mechanical cleaning is typically the safer, more reliable approach.
Why do my drains clog again shortly after I snake them?
Snaking can punch through the center of a clog while leaving buildup on the pipe walls. That leftover residue catches more debris quickly. A deeper clean (and sometimes inspection) helps address the real cause.
Do you offer emergency drain cleaning in Boise?
Yes—if you have a backup or overflow risk, it’s time to treat it like an emergency. Use Cloverdale Plumbing’s emergency page for fast help: Emergency Services.
Glossary (quick definitions)
FOG (Fats, Oils, and Grease): Cooking byproducts that can cool, harden, and stick to pipe walls, increasing the chance of clogs and backups.
Hot Water Jetting: A professional method that uses high-pressure hot water to scour grease, sludge, and buildup from inside pipes.
P-Trap: The curved section of pipe under a sink that holds water to block sewer gases. It can also catch debris and clog.
Main Line (Sewer Line): The primary drain line that carries wastewater from the home to the municipal sewer (or septic). Blockages here can affect multiple fixtures at once.
Emergency Plumbing in Boise, ID: What to Do First (and How to Prevent the Next One)
February 10, 2026A calm, practical checklist for leaks, clogs, no hot water, and winter pipe emergencies
Plumbing emergencies don’t wait for a convenient moment—especially in Boise winters or during a busy workweek. The good news: a few quick actions can reduce damage, lower cleanup costs, and speed up repairs. Below is a homeowner-friendly guide from Cloverdale Plumbing to help you decide what to do first, what to avoid, and when it’s time to call a professional for emergency plumbing in Boise, ID.
Step 1: Stop the water (before you diagnose)
If water is actively leaking, overflowing, or you suspect a burst pipe, your first goal is to limit water damage. Don’t waste time hunting for the “cause” until the flow is under control.
Quick shutoff checklist
1) Turn off the fixture stop valve (under the sink or behind the toilet) if the issue is isolated to one fixture.
2) If you can’t stop it locally, shut off the home’s main water valve. (Many Boise homes have a main shutoff where the water line enters the home.)
3) If the leak is near electrical outlets or a water heater, keep people away from the area and consider shutting off power to that zone at the breaker if it’s safe to do so.
4) Open a faucet to relieve pressure and help draining.
If you’re dealing with sewage backup, skip DIY attempts that could splash contaminated water. Block off the area, keep kids and pets away, and call for emergency service.
Common Boise plumbing emergencies (and the safest first moves)
Not every emergency looks dramatic. Some start small—then turn into soaked drywall, ruined flooring, or a damaged water heater. Use these “first move” steps as a guide.
| Emergency | What to do first | What to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet overflowing | Turn off toilet supply valve; remove tank lid and lift float; contain water | Repeated flushing; aggressive chemicals that can damage seals |
| No hot water | Check if pilot/breaker is off; look for tank leaks; keep area clear | Cranking temperature too high; ignoring puddles at the base |
| Burst/frozen pipe | Shut off main water; open faucets; begin safe thawing if frozen (not burst) | Open flame/torch; leaving water running uncontrolled |
| Main drain/sewer backup | Stop using water; keep people away; call for professional drain clearing | Running dishwasher/laundry; DIY snaking without knowing line condition |
| Sudden drop in water pressure | Check if it’s whole-house vs. one fixture; look for visible leaks; check water heater area | Ignoring it overnight (hidden leaks can worsen quickly) |
How to handle a clogged drain fast (without making it worse)
A clogged kitchen sink or shower can feel “minor” until it overflows, damages cabinets, or backs up into another fixture. If more than one drain is slow (or you smell sewage), treat it like a bigger issue.
Safe step-by-step
1) Stop using water in that area so you don’t push the blockage deeper.
2) Try a plunger (yes, even for sinks) with the overflow blocked if applicable.
3) Avoid “quick fix” chemicals if you may need professional clearing—some chemicals can be hazardous for you and tougher on pipes.
4) If clogs keep returning, schedule a professional cleanout to clear grease, hair, scale, or root intrusion the right way.
Boise winter tip: preventing frozen pipes (and what to do if a line freezes)
Treasure Valley weather can swing quickly. Frozen pipes are most common in unheated areas (garages, crawl spaces, exterior walls) and during cold snaps combined with wind or power outages.
Prevention that actually works
Insulate exposed lines in crawl spaces, garages, and exterior walls.
Seal cold air gaps where pipes enter the home (caulk/insulation around penetrations).
Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls to let warm air circulate.
Keep a steady indoor temperature, especially overnight and during travel.
During extreme cold, run a small “pencil-thin” stream on the most at-risk faucet(s) to keep water moving—then ensure drains are clear so you don’t create a different problem.
If a pipe is already frozen
1) Keep the faucet open (a small trickle helps relieve pressure as ice melts).
2) Apply gentle heat with a hair dryer or heating pad, working from the faucet side toward the frozen section.
3) Never use an open flame; it’s a common cause of pipe damage and fire risk.
4) If you can’t locate the freeze or you see bulging/cracking, shut off water and call for emergency help.
Helpful reference: The U.S. Department of Energy notes most households can set water heaters to 120°F for safety and efficiency, and that higher settings increase scald risk. (energy.gov)
When it’s time for a plumber (not another DIY attempt)
If any of these are happening, it’s smart to call right away—waiting can turn a manageable repair into major restoration.
• You had to shut off the main water to stop a leak
• You see water stains on ceilings/walls (possible hidden leak)
• Multiple drains are backing up (possible main line blockage)
• Water heater is leaking or making popping/banging noises
• You suspect a frozen pipe but can’t safely access it
• There’s sewage odor or wastewater in tubs/showers
Local Boise homeowner reminder: call 811 before you dig
Many emergency plumbing calls start with a simple weekend project—fence posts, tree planting, irrigation, or small trenching—followed by a damaged line. In Idaho, you should contact 811 at least two business days before digging so utilities can mark lines. (idahopower.com)
If you’re planning a remodel, it also helps to coordinate plumbing early so drains, venting, and fixture placement are done correctly the first time.
Need an emergency plumber in Boise right now?
Cloverdale Plumbing has served the Treasure Valley for decades with responsive, professional plumbing repairs and installations. If you have active leaking, a backed-up drain, a failing water heater, or suspected frozen pipes, we’re ready to help.
FAQ: Emergency plumbing in Boise, ID
Is a slow drain an emergency?
A single slow drain isn’t always an emergency, but it can become one if it’s worsening quickly, overflowing, or affecting multiple fixtures (which can point to a main line issue). If you notice sewage odor or backups in more than one area, stop using water and call.
What’s the first thing to do when a pipe bursts?
Shut off the main water valve, then open a faucet to relieve pressure. If water is near outlets or appliances, keep people away from the area and call for emergency plumbing service.
Should I use chemical drain cleaner before calling a plumber?
If you suspect a serious clog (multiple drains, sewage smell, or repeated backups), avoid chemical cleaners. They can be hazardous to handle and may complicate professional clearing. A plunger is usually the safest first attempt.
What temperature should my water heater be set to?
Many homes can use 120°F for a balance of comfort, efficiency, and reduced scald risk. Households with specific needs (like certain dishwashers or health considerations) may require different settings—ask a plumber to confirm what’s best for your home. (energy.gov)
When should I choose hot water jetting instead of basic drain cleaning?
Hot water jetting is often a great fit for recurring clogs, grease buildup, heavy scale, and stubborn blockages where a standard clearing may not restore full pipe flow. A technician can recommend the best approach after evaluating the line.
Glossary (quick definitions)
Main water shutoff: The primary valve that stops water flow into your home.
Fixture stop valve: A small valve near a sink, toilet, or appliance that shuts off water to that specific fixture.
Cleanout: An access point on a drain line that allows a plumber to clear blockages or inspect the line.
Hot water jetting: A high-pressure hot-water method used to scour buildup (grease, scale, roots) from drain and sewer pipes.
Scald risk: The risk of skin burns from hot water—higher water heater settings increase this risk.
Standby heat loss: Energy lost as stored hot water cools in the tank between uses; lower setpoints can reduce this loss. (energy.gov)